Monday, July 6, 2009

Musket Cove Marina/Resort

July 7, 2009--James arrived on June 29 at 5:10 in the morning. Abdul #1 took us to the airport that morning. He was a very good driver and a quiet guy. His brother Abdul #2 drove us into Lautoka one day and is talkative and is a much more aggressive driver.

We returned to the marina to drop off James's bags and relax for awhile. We then went in to Lautoka to pick up our cruising permit to the Yasawas. We walked through the market and bought some vegetables and kava and then ate lunch at our favorite Chinese/Thai restaurant. When we returned to the marina, we went over to the resort next door to take a swim and relax. James was quite good at climbing on and off the boat. That night we returned for a pizza special--$10 Fijian, which is about $5 U.S.

On Tuesday we had planned to leave; however, the rain set in and continued all day long. Around 2 o'clock we decided that the visibility was just not good enough to sail to Musket Cove so we went back to the pool for the afternoon. We enjoyed chicken quesadillas for dinner and turned in--jet lag finally set in for James.

Wednesday was beautiful so we checked out of the marina and headed out through the breakwater. We raised the sails and enjoyed a lovely 5 knot sail with 10 knots of wind. Unfortunately, half way across the wind died, so we decided to drop the sails and motor. James was up on the bow helping me spot the reefs along the way. Right before we headed into the channel through the reef to Malolo Lailai Island the wind piped right back up. We continued to motor and entered the channel leading to Musket Cove Marina/Resort and had no problems spotting the marks leading us around the reefs. We had called the resort on the radio and were told to pick up Mooring #9. When we arrived, we had some trouble finding the correct mooring ball, but we received some help from a fellow cruiser, who pointed out our mooring. That night I made Sauerbrauten for dinner, and we watched the movie Wind.

On Thursday we took a walk around the resort and over to the other side of the island and then relaxed on the beach for awhile. In the evening, we took Mahimahi and veggie packs rolled in foil to the bar on the point. The BBQ pits were going, and we cooked our fish and veggies and then joined some of our cruising friends for dinner.

Friday we joined four other cruisers for a trip over to Malolo Island and the Funky Fish Resort. Our guide Joe led us up to Uluisolo Peak, which is 220 meters high. This was not an easy hike because it was a very hot day. At the top the remains of a World War II bunker that served as a lookout point for the U.S. during the war still exists. We took some great pictures and then headed back down to enjoy a fish and chips lunch at the Funky Fish Resort. When we returned to the boat we enjoyed a nice swim and then cooked some steaks on the BBQ grill.

Saturday, the Fourth of July, we walked across the reef at low tide to the main island to visit the villages there. We met some of the locals and stopped to purchase a carved mask and a bracelet. The people were very friendly, and we enjoyed talking with them for some time. We walked back across the reef and returned to the beach for a short while. We took a swim out at the boat and then went back to shore to enjoy an unlimited shower. In the evening the resort put on a large BBQ for the Americans that included hamburgers and hot dogs along with apple pie. There was a large group that attended, and we enjoyed the evening very much. They even flew the American flag for the whole day.

Sunday was James's last day so we began by hoisting him up the mast so that he could take some pictures. We swam for a bit siince it was a very warm morning. After lunch we took the dinghy in to the Plantation Resort, which is next to Musket Cove Resort. We took a ride on the Banana Boat, which is a long, yellow, inflated tube being pulled behind a power boat. James did his best to dump us off; however, Steve and I held him off and survived the ride. We returned to the boat and grabbed our snorkeling gear and went for a quick snorkel at the reef in the anchorage.

Now it was time to get James's luggage to the Pacific Sun stand so Steve and James took the dinghy to drop off two bags and then returned to the boat. We went ashore to enjoy another shower. Then at 4:30 we walked over to the air strip and waited for his plane. At 5:30 James boarded the twin-engine, eight-seater airplane for a 10-minute flight to Nadi Airport. He was the only passenger on board so he had the plane all to himself.

After his plane took off, we decided to eat dinner at the restaurant and were able to enjoy a beautiful sunset that evening. We were so pleased that the weather was beautiful for most of James’s trip, and it was really fun having him on board with us.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Sailing Through the Reefs in Fiji

June 28, 2009—We left last Tuesday from Wainaloka Bay on the southwest side of Ovalau Island. The sun finally came out, and while the winds were forecast to remain around 25 knots with gusts to 30, we decided to leave.


The trip through the channel to Viti Levu was rolly, but we had no problems. We continued up the east side of the island and arrived at Viti Levu Bay around two o’clock, but we decided not to go any further because we had not thoroughly studied Volivoli Passage through the reef, and the sun would now be in our eyes, so we found a nice spot in Viti Levu Bay and dropped the anchor.

That night we carefully went over our way points and compared two electronic charts in order to plot our course. At nine o’clock the next morning we left the bay. When you are going through these reef passages you should do it at low tide, have the sun overhead, and light winds. Well, we were barely at mid-tide, and the winds were 25 knots gusting to 30. Oh well, two out of three ain’t bad.

We had some trouble finding the first mark for the entrance to the passage. Steve told me that he would be turning to starboard in a few minutes, and when I told him that if he did he would hit the reef, we threw out the electronic course and went with eyeball navigation. I was up on the bow standing on the dinghy with the radio in my hand spotting the marks and giving Steve directions. We made it through the pass with a few more grey hairs than when we left but had no mishaps.

We continued around the channel between the island and the reef and arrived at Vatia Bay around 3 p.m. where we anchored for the night. The next morning we left early for Lautoka so that we could check in with Customs. We arrived in Lautoka around noon, so we called Vuda Point Marina and asked if we could just come on in rather than waiting until the next day.

We pulled into the marina at 1:30 and picked up the center mooring while they got a spot ready for us. This marina is set up in a circle, so we carefully pulled into our spot with fenders ready. The “finger” for the dock is all of four feet long so we have to climb up on our bow pulpit in order to get off the boat. We are becoming quite the acrobats especially at low tide. The first night we were here I was climbing back on board when I hit my glasses pulling them off the lanyard and sending them into the drink. Steve quickly reached down and was able to grab them but went a bit too far over and ended up on the water. Luckily it was high tide, and he was able to easily climb back out. That was our entertainment for the evening.

We spent the day Friday checking in with Customs and shopping in Lautoka. We did laundry and some chores on Saturday and will finish them up today. James arrives tomorrow morning very early, and we are excited to see him.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

Holed up in Wainalola Bay

June 22, 2009--On Thursday we went back into town to pick up the laundry, grab a few veggies, and eat some Thai Curry at Kim's Paak Kum Lounge. Kim's is on the road across from the harbor, and we took a table out on the balcony overlooking the water. The meal was very good, and when we were done, the server brought us a book and asked us to sign it. It was interesting to look through it and see the entries made by people from all over the world. The laundry was not ready--I'll bet that it wasn't dry yet--so we went back to the dinghy. As we were about to leave the dock, Joe from Customs came out and asked Steve when we were planning to leave, so Steve told him that we needed to leave in the morning because some bad weather was coming through. Joe was upset because he had wanted to have Steve and I come by his house to drink kava, but Steve assured him that we would try very hard to stop back by here on our way to Savusavu.

On Friday morning we went in early, and while I picked up a few more last minute items at the grocery stores and the bakery, Steve went over to Customs to check out of Levuka. I went to pick up my laundry at Ovalau Water Sports and had to wait only about 30 minutes. When I found Steve at Customs, he was just finishing up with the clearance papers. It was a good thing that he got started early because all the paper work took much longer than he had expected. I then got the four Customs officers together for a very nice picture. We thanked them all and then returned to the boat, hoisted the dinghy up on the front deck, and pulled up the anchor.

Steve had located an anchorage up and around on the other side of Ovalau Island that would give us good protection from the 30 knot winds that were forecast for the next few days. The trip would be through the channel between the island and the barrier reef, which looked well marked and free of any coral heads. Still, I sat up on the bow to keep a lookout while Steve steered. We motored the 17 miles around the island since our batteries were low because of no sun for days. We arrived at Wainalola Bay around one o'clock and tucked back in a small bay where we dropped the anchor. The people at Customs asked that we let them know that we arrived here, so Steve sent them a quick email. I decided to bake a chocolate cake for a treat in the evening. Over night it rained and the winds picked up to the mid-twenties, but the anchor held with no problems.

On Saturday it rained heavily and blew close to 30 knots most of the day. There wasn't much for us to do so we read most of the day. We checked the weather again on this morning, and it still looked pretty unsettled, so we decided to stay here one more day. Hopefully, tomorrow the rain will be gone so that we can travel when there is some sunlight overhead, which will make it easier to see any coral heads. We discussed the fact that we were glad we crossed from Tonga to Fiji when we did, otherwise we would have had to cross in this nasty weather. We have had one day of sunshine since we arrived in Fiji, which the locals all say is unusual. Right now the weather shows two lows crossing just north of Fiji, and that is what is causing this weather system.

Last night when we went to bed the stars were out, and the water was like a lake, so we were hopeful to leave today. Unfortunately, at one o'clock in the morning, the winds and rain returned with gusto. The wind had shifted to the southwest, so we watched for awhile to make sure that our anchor had held. We spent most of the night on the settees and did not get much sleep. Hopefully, this is the second low passing over us, which means that we may be able to leave soon.

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Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Levuka, Ovalau Island

June 17, 2009—I wanted to share some of the pictures from our visit to the Ha'api.

The picture at the left is of a "talavala" or waist mat. The picture at the right is of the beach at Uoleva Island.

















The two pictures above are of Emelina and her family.

I SAVED THE BEST PICTURE FOR LAST. STEVE WITH HIS 53-INCH DORADO (MAHI MAHI)
This was the biggest fish that we have caught. Steve said that it was about the maximum weight that he could pull in with his hand line. It gave a good fight, but we won out in the end. Unfortunately, the line did some damage to our new varnish on the caprail, but it was worth it. The damage from the gaff wasn't too bad either. Now we have enough fish for quite awhile--the freezer is full.

We are at anchor in Levuka Harbor and rocking gently with the waves. We anchored by noon on the 13th and tried to pick up the boat just a bit. We called the Port Control about four times trying to get checked in; however, no one answered us. We found out later that we could have gone ashore in the dinghy to check in with Customs. Oh well, we were very tired so we just slept instead.

The next day was Sunday, which meant that everything was low key, and very few people are out except those going to church. We found out a bit late that Monday was the Queen’s birthday, so it was a holiday. That meant another day on the boat, but we used it to get some things done and didn’t really mind staying on the boat for another day.

Tuesday morning Steve went ashore and began the process of checking in. About an hour later he began shuttling officials out to the boat. They were not too keen on riding in our dinghy. Customs, Immigration, and Health all came aboard, and I served them lemonade and Snicker doodles, which disappeared very quickly. They were all very friendly. Unfortunately, Joe forgot his carbon paper (yes, some people still use carbon paper) so we had to fill out the same form multiple times. Our hands were cramping by the time we were done, but now we were official, which meant that we could go ashore.

As soon as Steve had shuttled everyone back to shore, we got dressed and took off for the dock. Levuka is the old capital of Fiji, and the main street looks similar to a frontier town in the states. The stores have false fronts, and the buildings are all wood. The people are so friendly and stop to talk with us as we pass them on the street. We are the only sailboat in the harbor, so we are the novelty here.

On our first day ashore we had a delicious pizza for lunch and then walked through town. We bought a few things at the grocery store and checked into tours at the dive shop. It rained pretty heavily all day long and through the evening, but that was good because it washed all the salt off the boat. Today we went in to pick up our cruising permit from the Lomaiviti Provincial Council. This allows us to go ashore anywhere in this province. We took a walk up the hillside where the sidewalk took us by many homes. The people all greeted us with “bula” for hello, and we responded in kind. We got a wonderful view of the harbor and “Linda” resting at anchor. We stopped for some Chinese food for lunch and then dropped off some laundry mainly the heavier items that are hard to hand wash.

It is quite humid today, so we were more than ready to return to the boat. Then Steve decided to go to town to get diesel and gasoline. The prices here are cheaper than in Tonga, which was a nice surprise. The exchange rate is very good—about 50 cents U.S. to the Fijian dollar. Our lunches have been inexpensive but large in portions. So far we are thoroughly enjoying Fiji and are anxious to get out and see more of it.

Tonight we went ashore to have dinner at the Whale’s Tale Restaurant. As we were pulling up to the dock, and I had my hand out to stop the dinghy from hitting the concrete, I happened to notice a sea snake on the wall just about where I was going to put my hand. Needless-to-say, I pulled my hand back, and we waited for it to slither away. When we returned to the dinghy after a very nice dinner, I was very careful to check for anything crawling around or in the dinghy.

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Tonga to Fiji and Surviving a Water Spout

June 13, 2009--On Monday, June 8, we returned to Emelina's home to give some gifts to the family, and we had a chance to meet her husband George, who is a fisherman. We took some pictures of the family and said our goodbyes, but before we left, they gave us four coconuts all cleaned and ready to use. John then drove up on his motorcycle and took us to his "farm," which is a plot of land where he has pineapple, banana, and papaya growing. He took a long stick to knock down three papayas for us, as well as a bunch of bananas. We thanked him for the generous gift and then left to return to the boat.

On our way back to the northern anchorage, we stopped at Luangahu Island, where we entered the lagoon anchorage through the coral reef and dropped the hook in 15 feet of beautiful, clear water. The small island is beautiful, and we thoroughly enjoyed our walk around it. We also saw bats flying over the interior of the island. We pulled the anchor and motored back to Uoleva Island to anchor for the night.

On Tuesday we returned to Pangai in order to check out of Tonga. We got some diesel, picked up a few vegetables, and then went to Customs and Immigration. The process went very smoothly, and when we were done, we went to have lunch at the Mariner's Cafe. We returned to Uoleva Island to check the weather forecasts for a passage to Fiji.

Wednesday morning we got the latest weather reports, and everything looked good. The only problem was that a small, intense low was supposed to form in an area close to where we would be passing. After analyzing all the information, we decided to go ahead and leave, so we quickly prepped the boat for the passage and were able to get underway by 11 o'clock. We had brisk winds to take us out through the few islands to the west, and we passed close by the volcano that Steve had been admiring for the past week. By the time dusk came, we were clear of all the obstacles and back out in open ocean.

The trip was 420 miles, which would be a three-day passage. We had 20 knots of wind and triple-reefed sails but were moving along nicely at about 6.5 to 7 knots. The seas were big and lumpy and that created a rolly ride, but everything else was excellent for the passage. The first day and night were uneventful. The second day was great because we caught a 53-inch Dorado--the biggest one yet! He gave Steve a pretty good fight and gaffing him turned out to be a real challenge, but we finally got him on board. I can't wait to post the picture of Steve holding this fish--it was beautiful. We enjoyed a dinner of mahi mahi in garlic butter that evening. We will be eating Dorado for quite some time, so it is a good thing that our freezer was almost empty. The last day proved to be the hardest as the seas were building, and we were having trouble staying on our course. Normally this would not worry us; however, there are dangerous areas on this route so we had to be extremely cautious. Every sail configuration we tried didn't quite work for our course, but we finally got one that worked well enough. By late afternoon we were making a turn at Toyota Island--the first Fijian island we saw. Now we were again in waters that had shoals and reefs, so we had to pay close attention to where we were. To make it even more exciting, our radar decided to quit on us a few days ago, but luckily we did have a 3/4 moon that helped us to see the islands. Now the squalls began (perhaps part of the low that was forecast); however, most of them created rain but, thankfully, no high winds. Steve ended up staying up all night, and I got very little sleep myself. We arrived at Ovalau Island around noon, which meant that we completed the passage in 73 hours. We were very pleased with our passage.

As we were approaching the island, Steve spotted a water spout--not a good thing--in the distance. We watched it for a few minutes and then turned our attention back to the island. Suddenly, Steve yelled that the spout was heading right for us, so we quickly dropped the main sail, and he tied it down as best as he could. We watched as the spout came right at the boat and then passed our starboard side not more than 10 feet away. The water was swirling with water particles circling up about six feet off the water, and the center of the vortex looked like a flushing toilet bowl. Steve was able to get some of the action on video. It was the most amazing thing that we have ever seen and the scariest. We were so thankful it missed going directly over the boat. Once our pulses quieted down, we continued in to Levuka passing through the coral reef and anchoring off the breakwater in 40 feet of water. We picked up the boat, celebrated our arrival, and then we both fell asleep for several hours.

After showering and eating a simple dinner, we went to bed still tired but happy that we chose to check in at Levuka. We are the only sailboat here as most boats go to Lautoka or Savusavu. We did not realize that Monday is a holiday for the Queen's birthday, so we will be on board until Tuesday when we can check in. Since we have so many things to work on--our course to Vuda Point, laundry, cleaning, etc.--we really don't mind.

The country of Fiji is larger and comprised of more islands than we realized so it provides a very large cruising area. We are looking forward to seeing this lush and beautiful Pacific island group.

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Sunday, June 7, 2009

Adventures in the Ha'api

June 7, 2009--The last week has been a full one. On the second, we decided to leave the harbor, which was no small feat. The private boat on the mooring ball right in front of us was creating major problems. We ended up having to put a kedge anchor off the port side to keep us from swinging into the boat. We then let out the rode on the kedge as we pulled up the anchor, which was just behind the other boat. Once our anchor was up, we pulled back on the kedge rode to pull us away from the other boat and enabled us to pull up that anchor as well. We were not sorry to leave this harbor.

We traveled just a short distance to the south to anchor at Uoleva Island. Our outboard was not fixed at this point, so we stayed on board for the afternoon. The next morning Steve found the problem with the outboard and was able to fix it easily. We got our stuff together and took off to the island. We decided to walk across the island and then around the northern point. The beaches were nice white sand, and we found some good shells. We were very hot and tired when we returned to the boat so we took a quick swim and showered off. We had met Bob and Kim on sv Northern Winds in Pangai a few days earlier, and they invited us over at five o'clock for cocktails. We had a lovely evening with them and watched a spectacular sunset behind the volcano to the west.

The next day we moved to the more southern anchorage on Uoleva Island and walked along the beach. When we came upon the Serenity Beach Resort, Patty the owner invited us in for tea. Patty is a former cruiser and always makes them feel welcome. She is just getting the resort started, but it looks like a very nice place to stay in lovely little fales with a great view of the ocean. At the resort we cut through the island again and then walked around the southern tip of the island, where we found many more beautiful shells. It was another good day. We only wish that the sun would come out so that it would warm up, and we could do some snorkeling.

On the fifth we sailed about 12 miles south and west to Uiha Island. On our way past Luangahu Island, our depth sounder suddenly shallowed dramatically. Steve had been on the bow on watch for coral heads but had just come back to tell me something. He ran back up to the bow and signaled me to turn hard to starboard. Once we passed it, we continued on our course. We now have that spot charted on our GPS. We came into the northern anchorage at Uiha Village, but the current from the pass to the north was affecting the boat too much so we moved south to Felemer Village to anchor. On our way there, again the depth sounder suddenly went from 15 feet to 10 feet to 8 feet. When I saw 10 feet, I immediately slowed down and then put the boat in reverse. We backed away from the coral head but not before seeing 7 feet 6 inches--our boat draws 6 feet. We finally found a good spot to drop the anchor and get settled in.

That evening several squalls came through, but the one at three o'clock in the morning got our attention. The winds gusted to 40 knots, and the boat was heeled over about 15 degrees. It also dropped heavy rain. It brought to mind our anchor drag in Vava'u last season. I knew that the anchor had dug in well when we backed down on it, and it did hold just fine for the 30 to 45 minutes that the squall lasted, but it was still a little nerve racking.

Yesterday we went ashore at Felemer Village and then walked on a dirt road north to Uiha Village. On our way we came upon many groups of pigs some of whom were rolling in the ponds of water left from the night before. Many of these pigs were as big as small cows. I got some great pictures, which I will post as soon as I have internet again. When we got to Uiha Village we met Naomi, the school principal, and she asked us if we might have some supplies for the school. We said that we would be glad to drop some by. We then walked on to the wharf where we met John, who is the mayor of the village. He invited us to church in the morning and then to lunch. We returned to the boat by way of the beach and were pleased to find several Spider Conch shells.

Sunday morning I baked Snickerdoodle cookies, and we went ashore just before ten. The Tongan Free Church building was built in 1885, and even though it is need of repairs, it was still lovely inside. The whole service was in Tongan, but the singing is amazing (these people sing very well and very loudly), and we really enjoyed the experience. Some of the children that we had met the day before were in church with us, and they would look at us and smile throughout the service. After the service, we did not see John anywhere, but another family invited us to eat with them, so we agreed. We walked to their home and went inside. There was a small sitting room with two bedrooms off to one side. The bathroom and cooking facilities were both outside. We met Emelina the mother, who is expecting a baby in August. The older son David is 23, a younger son David (yes, two Davids) who is about 12, and the youngest son John who is 2. The older daughter Lina is 16, and the younger daughter Molay is around 6. An oldest sister is attending school in Nuku'alofa. George the father is a fisherman but was drinking kava with the men in the church so we did not have a chance to meet him. We gave them our cookies, which they absolutely loved, and we joined them for a dinner of lamb and taro leaves in butter, shellfish with onion in coconut milk and butter, and baked manioke or tapioca root. It was a wonderful meal, and we talked all through it. They had as many questions for us as we had for them, and I believe that we all benefited greatly from the experience. Emelina gave me a beautifully woven colorful talavala as a gift, and I absolutely love it. Tomorrow we will go back to visit the family and take some gifts for them.

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Sunday, May 31, 2009

Arrival at Pangai on Lefuka Island

June 1, 2009--Last Friday we were able to leave Tongatapu just at sunrise and head north to Nomuka Iki Island. We had planned to stop at Kelefesia; however, the swell was rolling in from the southwest, which would make that anchorage very rolly. In addition to that, it is a very small anchorage, and another sailboat was already there.

We arrived at Nomuka Iki around three o'clock and motored between Nomuka Ika and Nomuka islands, both of which have major reefs at the south entrance. We dropped the anchor in about 18 feet of water and were lucky enough to get the anchor chain hung up on the one piece of coral that would cause us trouble. Steve ended up going in the water to manually unwrap the chain. We then moved in just a bit and were able to securely set the anchor in lovely sand. Since it was late in the afternoon, we decided to just relax and then go ashore in the morning.

On Saturday, the weather reports were not good. The wind was predicted to move from east around to northwest during the next 24 hours. Unfortunately, our anchorage did not have good protection for those winds, so we pulled the anchor and headed out for O'ua Island. The wind and waves were right on our nose as we again motored between the two reefs. However, once we got to the northern side of Nomuka Island, the winds were off our beam so we put up the double-reefed main and the full jib and sailed along at 6 knots. It was one of the nicest sails that we have had in awhile. The sun was out and the waves were minimal. The only thing causing some stress are the areas marked "blind rollers" on the chart, and these occur a lot around the Ha'api group. These breaking waves are caused when the sea encounters very shallow areas, which causes the waves to break. We would be looking out over the ocean and all of a sudden see these lovely white areas of breaking waves. Luckily, our charts and chart plotter do indicate those areas, and they have been pretty accurate so far.

As we approached O'ua Island, there was one rock on the charts that we never did locate. We were approaching at high tide, so we assumed that just enough water was covering the rock and for some reason not breaking. The entrance to O'ua Island is a channel leading through the reef that starts at the south end and curves around to the west and ends at the village. There was a small area to the side of the channel where we dropped our anchor. We thought that this position put us too close to the western reef so we re-anchored closer to the main channel where we also found better holding. We then had a very late lunch and cleaned up the boat. We watched as the local fishing boat left the village.

We had just taken our showers and were reading down below when Steve said that he heard a voice. I didn't hear anything, but a few moments later we both heard it. Steve went up above and saw two local young boys swimming out to our boat, which was not a short distance. We had them come aboard to dry off and then they sat down in the cockpit with us. I gave them some soda and ginger snap cookies while we talked. Their names were William and Soskiah. William is 19 and Soskiah is 16, and they visited with us for about an hour. William did most of the talking and was very friendly. Soon it was getting dark, so they helped us put our dinghy in the water, and we took them back to shore. Steve let Soskiah drive the dinghy, and he did a great job until we got into very shallow water where Steve took over. We dropped them off on shore and then tried to pick our way back to the boat. It was low tide and very difficult to find a good path. In addition to that, our dinghy engine started acting up once again. We had just gotten back to the boat when the outboard engine died. We have no idea what the problem is so Steve again has something to keep him busy.

On Sunday morning we downloaded our usual weather report, and the forecast was again not good for us. The winds were to clock around and be pretty strong. We probably would have been fine in the lagoon; however, we also could be trapped for up to four days, especially if the wind came from the south and made the exit channel dangerous for us. Therefore, we decided to leave and go on up to Pangai to check in to the Ha'api group. We left at 8:30 in the morning, disappointed that we did not get to go ashore to the village.

The trip from O'ua Island to Pangai on Lefuka Island took us about five hours. The winds were right on the nose so we had to motor the whole way. Steve fished but did not get anything--he is becoming frustrated again. We arrived at Pangai around 1:30 in the afternoon, right at high tide. We pulled into the harbor and got ready to med-moor the boat at the breakwater. There was room for us; however, a sailboat had put down a mooring ball right in the middle of the small harbor, which made getting our anchor down very difficult. Actually, getting moored was one of the more difficult things that we have done. When we finished, we were pretty tired, but we went ashore to buy very, very fresh bread at the bakery and then went over to the Mariner's Cafe to have dinner. Their chicken, onion, and capsicum (bell pepper) pizza was very good. We returned to the boat at 7 o'clock and did not last very long after that but long enough to eat half a loaf of bread!

We hope to leave the harbor tomorrow and go just a short distance south to some of the nearby anchorages. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.

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